How to Display Multiple Skateboard Wall Art Pieces: Racks, Shelves, and Spacing That Actually Works

Skateboard Racks for Wall

A single deckarts piece ships ready to hang — you don't need a rack or shelf system for one deck. The question only gets interesting once you're displaying more than one, and at that point the answer isn't a specific product to buy; it's spacing, height, and a display method that actually suits how the pieces will be arranged.

What Actually Comes With Your Deck

Every deckarts piece arrives ready to mount, without needing a separate rack, bracket, or shelf system bought elsewhere. For a single deck or even a diptych/triptych set on one wall, that's genuinely all you need — the piece mounts directly, at whatever height and spacing suits the wall.

When You're Displaying More Than One Piece

Once a collection grows past what fits as one grouped set, there are three broad approaches that actually work, and the right one depends more on your wall and how often you rearrange than on a specific product:

Individual mounting at consistent spacing. Each piece hangs on its own, with a fixed gap between pieces (see the spacing rule below). This is the simplest approach and works for any wall — it's exactly how a diptych or triptych set is already mounted, just extended to more pieces that aren't part of the same design.

A floating ledge. A narrow shelf mounted flush to the wall lets decks lean rather than hang, which makes rearranging trivial — useful if you swap pieces in and out regularly, or if you're not committed to a final arrangement yet. The tradeoff is that leaned pieces can shift if the ledge is bumped, so it suits lower-traffic walls better than a hallway or a spot near a doorway.

A rail or track system. Mounting a horizontal rail first, then hanging individual pieces from it, lets you slide pieces left and right without drilling a new hole every time you rearrange. This is the most flexible option for a collection that keeps growing, at the cost of more setup work upfront.

Spacing and Height That Actually Matter

Two rules do most of the work, regardless of which display method you choose:

Keep the gap consistent. Whatever spacing you pick between pieces — tight or generous — keep it the same across the whole display. Inconsistent spacing reads as unplanned even when every individual piece is hung carefully; a uniform gap is what makes a group of separate decks read as one deliberate display rather than a scattered collection.

Centre the group at eye level. Galleries typically centre artwork around 145–155 cm from the floor to the centre of the piece (or the centre of the whole group, if you're hanging several). Mounting a display noticeably higher than that, to "use the wall space," tends to push it above the natural sightline and make it read as an afterthought rather than a focal point.

Wall Type and Mounting Hardware

The mounting method that works depends on what's actually behind your wall, not on the display method you chose. Solid walls (masonry, concrete, brick) generally take a standard screw and wall plug directly. Plasterboard/drywall walls need either a stud to mount into, or a cavity fixing rated for the mounting hardware — a fixing rated only for light picture frames isn't the same as one rated for a solid maple deck. If you're renting or don't want to drill at all, see our guide on no-drill display options instead.

Common Mistakes

Mounting too high. The instinct to "use more of the wall" often pushes a display above natural sightlines, where it reads as ceiling decoration rather than a focal point.

Inconsistent spacing. Roughly-even gaps read as sloppier than either perfectly even spacing or deliberately asymmetric spacing with a clear pattern — the "almost even" middle ground is the one that looks unplanned.

Ignoring the wall type. A cavity fixing rated for a light picture frame isn't rated for a maple deck. Check what's behind the wall and use hardware rated for the actual weight and wall material, not just whatever came in a generic hardware pack.

Fighting the room's proportions. A narrow wall doesn't need five pieces crammed into a row, and a tall wall doesn't need everything crowded into one horizontal band. Let the space dictate how many pieces fit comfortably, rather than forcing a fixed layout onto it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a rack to display a deckarts piece?
No — every piece ships ready to mount directly on its own. A rack, ledge, or rail system only becomes relevant once you're displaying more pieces than fit as one grouped set.

What's the best way to display a growing collection?
It depends on how often you rearrange. Individual mounting at consistent spacing is simplest for a settled layout; a floating ledge or rail system makes more sense if you expect to keep adding or repositioning pieces.

How high should I mount a group of pieces?
Centre the group (or its centre piece) at roughly 145–155 cm from the floor — the standard gallery eye-level height. Mounting higher to fill more wall space tends to push the display above the natural sightline.

What if I don't want to drill into the wall at all?
See our dedicated guide on no-drill display options for renters and anyone who wants to avoid mounting hardware in the wall entirely.

Article summary

  • A single deckarts piece ships ready to hang and doesn't need a separate rack or shelf system.
  • For multiple pieces, the three real options are individual mounting at fixed spacing, a floating ledge for easy rearranging, or a rail/track system for a growing collection.
  • Consistent spacing and eye-level centring (145–155cm) matter more than which display method you pick.
  • Match mounting hardware to the actual wall type — a fixing rated for a light picture frame isn't rated for a solid maple deck.

About the Author

Stanislav Arnautov is the founder of deckarts, a graphic designer and print specialist originally from Ukraine, now based in Berlin, where he personally designs and prepares every deck. Follow on Instagram or visit stasarnautov.com.

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