So this method—the fishing line hang—holds a special place in my heart because it's literally the first thing I tried when I moved to Berlin four years ago. Picture this: 11 PM on a Tuesday, I'm standing in my empty Kreuzberg apartment with seven skateboard decks leaning against the wall, a suitcase full of clothes, and exactly €43 in my wallet until my first freelance payment cleared. I'd just walked back from the corner shop with a spool of fishing line (€2.50) and two small nails (€0.80), and I was about to figure out if this idea I'd seen on some forum years ago actually worked.
Spoiler: it worked. Beautifully. That first deck—a simple street deck I'd gotten during my Red Bull Ukraine days—hung on my wall for eight months using nothing but 20 lb monofilament and pure hope. The fishing line was so thin it was practically invisible from more than a meter away, making the deck look like it was floating against the white wall.
Since then, I've used this method dozens of times, taught it to friends, refined the technique through trial and error (emphasis on error), and learned exactly when it works brilliantly and when it fails spectacularly. So let me walk you through the proper way to hang a skateboard with fishing line—the method that's kept our Caravaggio Medusa pieces and countless other decks securely on walls across Berlin.
Why Fishing Line Works: The Physics and Aesthetics
Before we get into the how-to, let's talk about why this method is so effective. Clear monofilament fishing line has a few properties that make it perfect for skateboard mounting, and understanding these helps you avoid the mistakes I made early on.
First, the invisibility factor. Quality clear fishing line is genuinely hard to see from normal viewing distances. According to Family Handyman's guide to invisible hanging methods, monofilament line reflects very little light and creates minimal visual interruption, especially against light-colored walls. When I mounted my Frida Kahlo deck using this method, guests would literally ask "how is that staying up?" because they couldn't see the support system.
Second, the strength-to-weight ratio is remarkable. A 20 lb test fishing line (which is what I recommend minimum) can support about 9 kg of weight, while weighing virtually nothing itself. Your average skateboard deck weighs 1.2-1.5 kg. That's a safety margin of roughly 6:1, which is more than adequate for static wall display.
Third—and this is something I learned through experience—the slight elasticity of monofilament actually helps. Unlike rigid mounting systems, fishing line has just enough give to absorb tiny vibrations from foot traffic, doors closing, that sort of thing. This prevents the constant micro-stresses that can gradually loosen rigid mounts over time.
What You'll Actually Need (Total Cost: Under €5)
Let me give you the exact materials list, with specifications that matter. I've tested cheaper alternatives and more expensive options, and this combination hits the sweet spot of effectiveness and affordability.
Essential materials:
- Clear monofilament fishing line, 20-30 lb test (€2-3 for a spool)
- Two small picture hanging nails or hooks rated for 2-3 kg each (€1-2 for a pack)
- Sharp scissors or wire cutters
Optional but helpful:
- Pencil for marking wall positions
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Level (or use your phone's level app)
- Small piece of sandpaper if your deck has rough edges around the truck holes
The fishing line specification is important. Don't go below 20 lb test—I tried 10 lb once thinking "it's only a 3 pound deck," and it stretched visibly over time, creating a saggy, unprofessional look. The 20-30 lb range gives you safety margin plus maintains its shape long-term.
For the line itself, clear monofilament is crucial. I once helped a friend who'd used green fishing line because "it was what I had," and it looked terrible—this weird visible green line cutting across his wall. Spend the extra fifty cents for clear.
Step 1: Prepare Your Deck (5 Minutes)
Start by deciding which way you want your deck to hang. For this method, I strongly recommend horizontal mounting—the deck parallel to the floor, graphic facing out. Vertical mounting (deck perpendicular to floor) can work with fishing line, but it's trickier and more prone to rotation over time.
Remove the trucks if they're attached. Yes, this means you're displaying just the deck, not a complete setup. The fishing line method works best for deck-only displays weighing under 1.5 kg. You can technically hang a complete board this way, but the weight makes the line more visible as it stretches slightly, and you lose that clean floating aesthetic.
Check the truck mounting holes on your deck. These are the eight holes where the trucks normally bolt on—four holes near each end of the deck. Run your finger around the edges of the top two holes (the ones closest to the nose). If you feel rough edges or splinters, lightly sand them smooth. This prevents the fishing line from fraying against sharp wood over time.
When I was working with Ukrainian streetwear brands, we'd get decks with rough-cut holes all the time, and this simple sanding step made the difference between displays that lasted months versus displays that failed within weeks.
Step 2: Thread the Fishing Line (The Critical Part)
This is where technique really matters. I'm going to describe the exact method that's worked consistently for me across probably fifty different installations.
Cut a length of fishing line about 60-80 cm long. This seems like a lot for a deck that's maybe 80 cm long, but you need extra length for the loops and knots. Better to have excess you can trim than to cut it too short and start over.
Thread the line through one of the top truck holes from the graphic side (the decorated side you want to display) through to the back. Pull it across the back of the deck, then thread it through the other top truck hole from back to front. You should now have both ends of the line coming out the front of your deck, with a loop of line running across the back.
Here's the part people mess up: creating the hanging loop. Take both ends of the line and tie them together with a simple overhand knot, creating one large loop. The knot should be positioned so the loop extends about 15-20 cm above the top edge of your deck when you hold the deck by its bottom edge.
Pull the knot tight—really tight. Monofilament is slippery, and a loose knot will gradually slide and fail. I use what's called a surgeon's knot (basically an overhand knot but you pass the ends through twice before tightening), which creates extra friction and doesn't slip.
Test the loop by holding your deck up by it. The deck should hang level, parallel to the floor, graphic facing forward. If one side hangs lower, your loop isn't centered—adjust by sliding the knot slightly along the back loop until the deck balances evenly.
Step 3: Mark Your Wall Placement (Don't Skip This)
Now comes the measuring part, which I'll be honest... I skipped the first few times because I was impatient. Result? Decks hung at weird heights, off-center, or not level. Learn from my mistakes.
Hold your deck against the wall where you want it displayed, maintaining the height and position. Have someone mark the wall at the top center point of the deck, or if you're alone, use a small piece of painter's tape to mark the spot.
Now measure up from that mark about 15-20 cm (depending on how long you made your hanging loop) and make another mark. This is where your nail or hook will go. The hanging loop creates distance between the mounting point and the deck, which is why the hook goes higher than where the deck actually sits.
Use a level to ensure your mounting point is actually where you think it is. Walls aren't always perfectly vertical, and visual judgment can be deceptive. I mounted a deck in my hallway once without leveling, and it looked fine until I stood at the far end of the hall—then it was obviously crooked. Had to remount it.
For our Bosch Garden of Earthly Delights triptych, I actually use fishing line for all three pieces to maintain that floating aesthetic across the entire installation. But that requires really precise measurement so all three decks hang at exactly the same height.
Step 4: Install the Wall Anchor (The Foundation)
Hammer your picture nail or install your hook at the marked spot. If you're using a nail, angle it slightly downward (about 45 degrees) rather than straight horizontal. This creates a more secure grip for the fishing line loop and prevents it from sliding off if there's any vibration.
For drywall, use a nail long enough to penetrate at least 2.5 cm into the wall. The cheap brass picture nails work fine—they're designed for exactly this weight range. If you're mounting on plaster or concrete, you'll need appropriate anchors for that wall type, but honestly, fishing line is so light that almost any small anchor will suffice.
Here's a tip I learned from my years in merchandising and pop-up shop displays: test your anchor before hanging anything valuable. Press down on the nail or hook with moderate force. It should feel completely solid with zero movement. If it shifts at all, remove it and try a different spot or add a proper wall anchor.
For really valuable pieces like our Klimt The Kiss skateboard art, I actually use two hooks instead of one, creating a two-point support system. The fishing line loop goes over both hooks, distributing weight and eliminating any possibility of rotation. Takes an extra minute but adds significant stability.
Step 5: Hang and Adjust (The Satisfying Part)
This is the moment of truth. Take your prepared deck with its fishing line loop and hook the loop over your wall anchor. The deck should hang freely, parallel to the floor, at the height you planned.
Step back and check the level. If the deck isn't perfectly horizontal, you have two adjustment options. First, you can slightly twist the loop where it contacts the wall anchor—sometimes the line has settled unevenly and a small twist rebalances everything. Second, if one side consistently hangs lower, the knot on your back loop might need repositioning.
Check the distance from the wall. The deck should sit about 1-2 cm away from the wall surface—close enough to look mounted, far enough that it's not scraping paint. If it's touching the wall, your hanging loop might be too long; if it's floating way out, the loop is too short.
Walk past the mounted deck a few times at normal speed. The slight air movement should barely affect it. If the deck swings noticeably, your fishing line might be too thin or too long, creating excessive movement. A properly mounted fishing line display is surprisingly stable—I've had decks stay motionless through Berlin's drafty winter window situations.
The first time you successfully hang a deck this way and step back to see it apparently floating on the wall with no visible support, it's genuinely satisfying. I remember texting a photo to my designer friends back in Ukraine being like "look at this—invisible mount!" They thought I'd Photoshopped it.
Common Problems and Solutions (From Hard Experience)
Let me save you from the mistakes I've made over four years of using this method.
Problem: The line is visible and distracting. Solution: Either your line is too thick, or you're using colored line instead of clear. Also, lighting matters—direct spotlights or side lighting makes any line more visible. I learned this when I mounted a deck under a track light; the line cast a shadow that ruined the floating effect. Moved the light, problem solved.
Problem: The deck slowly tilts over weeks. Solution: Your knot is slipping. Remake the loop with a surgeon's knot and really crank it tight. Some people also add a tiny drop of superglue to the knot for permanent security—I've done this for outdoor installations where weather affects the line.
Problem: The line stretched and the deck hangs lower than it did originally. Solution: You used too light a test line, or you hung a heavier deck/complete setup. Replace with 30 lb test line. Once monofilament stretches, it doesn't bounce back.
Problem: The fishing line broke. Solution: This usually means the line was rubbing against a sharp edge on the deck (rough truck hole) or the wall anchor (sharp nail edge). Sand any rough spots and use a hook with smooth curves instead of a pointed nail.
I had a deck fall at 4 AM once—scared the hell out of me—because the line had been slowly fraying against a nail with a sharp tip. Now I only use hooks with smooth curves, or if I must use nails, I file the tips slightly blunt.
When Fishing Line Isn't the Right Choice
Okay, real talk: this method has limitations, and I need to be honest about them because I've learned through... let's call them "learning experiences."
Don't use fishing line for:
- Complete setups with trucks and wheels (too heavy, line becomes visible as it stretches)
- Decks in high-traffic areas where people might bump them (the deck will swing dramatically)
- Extremely valuable or irreplaceable decks (the single-point failure risk isn't worth it)
- Locations with significant temperature swings (monofilament properties change with heat/cold)
That last point? Learned it when I mounted a deck near a radiator in my first Berlin winter. The heat made the line more elastic, the deck gradually drooped, and by February it was hanging at a noticeably different angle than November. Had to remount with a shorter loop.
For heavy or valuable pieces like our Girl with a Pearl Earring duo set, I use more robust mounting systems—proper wall mounts or wood brackets. Fishing line is brilliant for lightweight, deck-only displays where the invisible aesthetic is priority number one. But it's not a universal solution.
Advanced Technique: The Double-Hook Method
Once you've mastered the basic single-hook technique, there's an upgraded version that offers significantly more stability without much additional cost or complexity.
Instead of one hook, install two hooks about 15-20 cm apart horizontally, both at the same height. Thread your fishing line through the truck holes as before, but create two separate loops instead of one—one loop for each hook.
This two-point system prevents any deck rotation, eliminates tilting, and distributes weight across two wall anchors instead of one. The visual effect is still nearly invisible because clear line from two points looks the same as clear line from one point—which is to say, you barely see it.
I use this method for all our DeckArts display pieces now. The extra three minutes of setup time is worth the peace of mind, especially for client installations or gallery displays where failure isn't an option.
During my Red Bull Ukraine event days, we'd use variations of this technique for all sorts of lightweight signage and display elements. The principle is the same: distribute load, minimize visibility, maximize impact. Those skills translated directly to skateboard mounting when I started DeckArts.
Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Fishing line mounts aren't set-it-and-forget-it solutions. Every few months, I do a quick inspection of all my fishing line displays. Takes maybe five minutes total but prevents surprises.
Check the knot first. It should still be tight with no visible slippage along the back loop. If the knot has shifted, the deck's balance might be off, even if you don't notice it yet.
Check the line itself where it threads through the truck holes. Look for any signs of fraying, whitening (indicates stress), or thinning. Monofilament that's failing will often show these signs before it actually breaks.
Check where the loop contacts the wall hook. This is a high-stress point. If you see any roughness developing on the line here, that's an early warning sign—replace the line before it fails.
And honestly? Even if everything looks perfect, I replace fishing line mounts after about 12-18 months just as preventive maintenance. A fresh spool of line costs €2. A deck crashing off the wall costs way more—both in potential damage and in the psychological trauma of hearing that sound at 3 AM.
Final Thoughts: The Beauty of Simplicity
Four years ago, I hung that first deck with fishing line out of pure necessity—I had no money for fancy mounting systems and no permission to drill major holes. But what started as a budget solution became my preferred method for a specific type of display: lightweight decks where the goal is to showcase the art with minimal visual interference.
There's something aesthetically pure about a skateboard that appears to float on a wall with no visible means of support. It focuses attention entirely on the graphic, the shape, the art itself. That's exactly what I want for pieces like our Haywain Triptych collection—the mounting system should be invisible, letting the Renaissance artwork take center stage.
The fishing line method taught me an important lesson about design and display that I still use in all my work: sometimes the most elegant solution is also the simplest and cheapest. You don't need expensive systems or complicated hardware to create professional results. You just need to understand the materials, respect their limitations, and apply proper technique.
For more skateboard display techniques and mounting options, check out my guides on DIY mounting methods under €10 and understanding weight limits for safe installation.
About the Author
Stanislav Arnautov is the founder of DeckArts and a creative director originally from Ukraine, now based in Berlin. With extensive experience in branding, merchandise design, and vector graphics, Stanislav has worked with Ukrainian streetwear brands and organized art events for Red Bull Ukraine. His unique expertise combines classical art knowledge with modern design sensibilities, creating museum-quality skateboard art that bridges Renaissance masterpieces with contemporary culture. Follow him on Instagram, visit his personal website stasarnautov.com, or check out DeckArts on Instagram and explore the curated collection at DeckArts.com.