You know, when I first moved to Berlin four years ago, I had exactly three things: two suitcases of clothes, my graphic design portfolio, and a collection of seven skateboard decks I'd been collecting since my Red Bull Ukraine days. What I didn't have? A €200 budget for fancy wall mounting systems. Or, honestly, permission from my landlord to drill a dozen holes in the walls of my Kreuzberg apartment.
So I got creative. Really creative. Because here's the thing about being a designer who's spent years working with Ukrainian streetwear brands - you learn to make professional results happen with whatever resources you've got. And mounting skateboard art on walls? That's basically the same principle as merchandising displays, just with stricter budget constraints and the constant threat of losing your security deposit.
After four years of experimentation (and, okay, a few failures I'd rather not discuss), I've figured out five DIY mounting methods that actually work, look professional, and cost less than a decent pizza. Whether you're displaying one of our Caravaggio Medusa pieces or just showing off your old street deck, these methods will get your boards on the wall without destroying your wallet or your walls.
Method 1: The Fishing Line Hang (Cost: €2-3)
This was actually the first method I tried when I landed in Berlin, mostly because fishing line was one of the few things I could find at the corner shop near my apartment at midnight. But it turned out to be surprisingly elegant - almost invisible when done right, and strong enough to hold even heavier decks.
What you need:
- 20-30 lb test fishing line (clear monofilament)
- Two small nails or picture hangers (the kind rated for 2-3 kg)
- Scissors
How it works: You thread the fishing line through the top two truck mounting holes on your deck, create a loop, and hang it from two small nails positioned about the width of your deck apart. The line is nearly invisible from a few feet away, so the deck appears to float on the wall.
I used this method for my Frida Kahlo deck in my bedroom, and honestly? Guests always ask how it's mounted because they literally can't see the line. The trick is to use clear line, not colored, and to keep the line relatively short so the deck sits close to the wall without much swing.
The catch: This works best for lighter decks (deck only, no trucks/wheels). If you're hanging a complete setup, the weight can stretch the line over time, and you'll end up with a deck that gradually tilts forward. Ask me how I know. Actually, don't ask. It involved my vintage Powell Peralta and a very embarrassing 3 AM crash.
Method 2: Picture Ledge Repurposing (Cost: €5-8)
This one came to me during a weekend trip to IKEA when I was supposed to be buying... I don't even remember what. But I walked past their picture ledge section and had this moment of clarity: picture ledges are basically pre-made skateboard shelves if you mount them vertically instead of horizontally.
What you need:
- One IKEA MOSSLANDA picture ledge (or any similar brand, around €5-7)
- Wall anchors and screws (usually included)
- Level (or use your phone)
How it works: Mount the picture ledge vertically on your wall so the ledge projects outward. The deck rests in the groove, leaning against the wall at a slight angle. The ledge supports the bottom edge, and gravity plus the lean keeps it stable.
I've got three of these running vertically down my hallway, each holding a different deck. It creates this staggered gallery effect that actually looks intentional and designed, not like a budget hack. When I'm showing someone our Bosch Garden of Earthly Delights triptych collection, I use this method for displaying example pieces in the studio.
The catch: This method requires drilling into the wall to mount the ledge securely. So if you're in a strict no-drilling situation, this won't work. Also, the deck sits at an angle rather than flat against the wall, which takes up more room. In my narrow hallway, I actually bonked my head on a deck nose once. Just once. Okay, twice.
Method 3: Command Strip Mounting (Cost: €8-10)
I was skeptical about Command strips for skateboard mounting. Really skeptical. They're basically heavy-duty double-sided tape, right? How's that supposed to hold 1.5 kg of Canadian maple? But according to The Spruce's testing of adhesive mounting solutions, quality Command strips can handle way more weight than most people think - if you use them correctly.
What you need:
- 3M Command Large Picture Hanging Strips (the ones rated for 5+ lbs)
- Clean cloth and rubbing alcohol
- Patience (seriously, this matters)
How it works: Clean your wall thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Let it dry completely - and I mean completely, not "eh, looks dry enough." Apply the Command strips to your skateboard deck according to package directions. Press firmly against the wall for 30 seconds. Then - and this is the part most people skip - wait 24 hours before hanging the actual deck. The adhesive needs time to cure.
I use this method in my home office for rotating displays. Every few months I swap out which deck is on the wall, and Command strips make that easy without creating permanent holes. Currently have our Klimt The Kiss piece up there, and it's been solid for about... six months now? No sliding, no falling.
The catch: Wall texture matters enormously. These work great on smooth painted walls. On textured plaster or that weird bumpy wallpaper German apartments sometimes have? Not so much. Also, temperature fluctuations can affect adhesive strength. My first attempt was in summer, right next to a window that got direct afternoon sun. The deck lasted exactly five days before the heat softened the adhesive and... yeah.
Method 4: Door Hooks Hack (Cost: €3-5)
This method is probably the most "why didn't I think of that sooner" solution I've found. You know those over-the-door hooks people use for robes and towels? They work perfectly for skateboards. Perfectly.
What you need:
- Two over-the-door hooks (the kind with curved arms)
- Optional: small adhesive felt pads to protect your deck's finish
How it works: Position two over-the-door hooks on your wall at the appropriate spacing for your deck width. The hooks catch the deck's trucks if it's a complete setup, or you can position them to catch the deck edges if it's just the board. The curved shape cradles the deck naturally.
I discovered this method kind of by accident. Had some extra hooks sitting around from a previous apartment, tried them on a whim, and was shocked at how well they worked. Now I use this setup in my storage area for decks that aren't currently on display. Quick to set up, quick to change out, zero commitment.
The over-the-door style means you're not drilling - you're using the door frame or molding for support. In my current place, I actually use these on a non-functioning door frame (one of those weird architectural things Berlin apartments have) to create a full skateboard display wall.
The catch: You need a suitable door frame or thick molding for the hooks to grip. Modern apartments with minimal trim won't work. Also, depending on your door frame height, decks might hang too high or too low. I had to get creative with spacing to make this work aesthetically, and my first attempt looked... let's say "unintentionally chaotic."
Method 5: DIY Wood Mount (Cost: €5-8)
Okay, this one requires the most effort, but it's also the most customizable and professional-looking. Back when I was working with Ukrainian streetwear brands, we built tons of custom display fixtures for pop-up shops. This is basically a miniature version of those retail displays.
What you need:
- One piece of scrap wood (plywood or pine, about 30cm x 10cm)
- Two small L-brackets or angle brackets
- Wood screws
- Sandpaper (if your wood is rough)
- Optional: wood stain or paint
How it works: Cut your wood to the desired length (I usually go slightly narrower than the deck width). Sand it smooth. Attach L-brackets to the back for wall mounting. The deck rests on the wood piece, which projects out from the wall like a shelf. You can add a small lip to the front edge to prevent sliding, or keep it simple and let the deck lean.
I've made probably a dozen of these over the years, each one slightly different depending on what wood scraps I had available. The beauty is customization - you can stain the wood to match your room, add multiple levels for several decks, or even incorporate small shelves for displaying other stuff.
For our Girl with a Pearl Earring duo set, I actually built a custom double-mount using this method so both decks could be displayed side by side with perfect spacing. Took maybe an hour to build, cost about €6 in materials, and looks like something you'd buy in a specialty skateboard shop.
The catch: This is the most time-intensive method. You need basic tools (saw, drill, sandpaper), and you need to actually build something rather than just buying a ready-made solution. Also, you still need to mount the wood piece to your wall, which might require drilling depending on weight and wall type.
What I've Learned: Budget Methods Can Look Professional
Here's what surprised me most about these DIY methods: with a bit of care and attention to detail, they can look just as good as expensive commercial mounting systems. I've had people visit my apartment, see my skateboard displays, and ask where I bought the mounts - then be genuinely shocked when I explain I made them from fishing line and picture ledges.
The key is treating your skateboard art with the same respect you'd give any other valuable art piece. Whether you're displaying our Haywain Triptych collection or a beat-up deck from your first year skating, the mounting method should be clean, intentional, and secure.
During my time organizing art events for Red Bull Ukraine, I learned that presentation matters just as much as the art itself. A beautiful piece displayed carelessly loses impact. A simple piece displayed thoughtfully gains significance. That principle applies whether you're mounting in a gallery space or a one-bedroom apartment in Kreuzberg with a €10 budget.
Mix and Match: What I Actually Use
In my apartment right now, I'm using all five of these methods for different decks in different locations. Fishing line for the lightweight deck in my bedroom. Picture ledges in the hallway. Command strips in the office. Door hooks in storage. Custom wood mounts in the living room.
This mix-and-match approach actually works better than using one method everywhere. Different rooms have different mounting challenges - different wall types, different available space, different aesthetic requirements. The fishing line that works beautifully in my bedroom would look weird in the living room where I want something more substantial.
Also, being honest? Some of this is just experimentation. I'm constantly trying new configurations, new materials, new ideas. That's part of the fun of DIY mounting - you can evolve and improve without spending a fortune on new commercial systems every time you want to change something.
The Real Cost: Time vs. Money
One thing I should mention about these DIY methods: they're cheap in terms of money, but they require time and sometimes trial-and-error. That first fishing line setup I did? Took me probably 45 minutes of measuring, adjusting, re-measuring, and cursing before I got it right. The Command strip method? Failed twice before I figured out the proper surface prep and cure time.
If you've got more money than time, buying a commercial mounting system for €15-30 might be the smarter move. They're designed to work consistently, come with clear instructions, and don't require creative problem-solving at midnight when you're trying to figure out why your deck keeps tilting.
But if you're like I was when I first moved to Berlin - limited budget, limited drilling options, but plenty of design experience and a willingness to experiment - these DIY methods open up possibilities that commercial products can't match. Custom spacing for an unusual deck size? No problem. Mounting on a weird textured wall? Figure it out. Creating an asymmetrical gallery display? Easy.
A Note on Wall Damage and Rental Agreements
Living in Berlin, I've moved apartments four times in four years. Each time, I've gotten my full security deposit back despite having mounted dozens of skateboards on the walls. The secret? Being strategic about which methods you use where, and always - always - testing first.
Before I commit to any mounting method in a new apartment, I try it in an inconspicuous spot first. Behind a door, inside a closet, anywhere the landlord won't immediately see if it leaves a mark. This test run reveals whether the method will work with that specific wall type without risking visible damage.
The fishing line method leaves the smallest footprint - just two tiny nail holes that can be filled with a dab of spackle. The Command strips, when removed properly according to the instructions, leave zero marks on smooth painted walls. Even the door hook method is reversible if you're careful about how you position them.
The wood mount method? That one does require drilling, so I only use it on walls where I know I can easily patch and paint before moving out. Or in apartments where the landlord has explicitly okayed wall mounting. Berlin rental agreements vary wildly on this stuff, so always check your contract first.
Final Thoughts: Start Simple, Experiment Later
If you're new to DIY skateboard mounting, I'd recommend starting with Method 1 (fishing line) or Method 3 (Command strips). Both are low-risk, low-cost, and reversible if they don't work out. They're also genuinely effective for most standard deck-only setups.
Once you've got one or two decks successfully mounted and you've learned the quirks of your specific walls, then experiment with the more complex methods. The picture ledge approach is brilliant but requires drilling. The wood mount method is professional but time-intensive. Don't try to build a full gallery wall using advanced techniques until you've mastered the basics.
And remember: the goal isn't just to get your skateboards off the floor and onto the wall. The goal is to display them as the art they are, whether that's a museum-quality Renaissance print or a scratched-up board with sentimental value. Mounting methods are just tools for achieving that goal, and the best tool is the one that works for your specific situation, budget, and skill level.
For more detailed guidance on skateboard wall displays, check out my articles on choosing the right mounting hardware and understanding weight limits for safe installation.
About the Author
Stanislav Arnautov is the founder of DeckArts and a creative director originally from Ukraine, now based in Berlin. With extensive experience in branding, merchandise design, and vector graphics, Stanislav has worked with Ukrainian streetwear brands and organized art events for Red Bull Ukraine. His unique expertise combines classical art knowledge with modern design sensibilities, creating museum-quality skateboard art that bridges Renaissance masterpieces with contemporary culture. Follow him on Instagram, visit his personal website stasarnautov.com, or check out DeckArts on Instagram and explore the curated collection at DeckArts.com.
Article Summary
This practical guide explores five budget-friendly DIY methods for mounting skateboard art on walls, each costing under €10. Drawing from four years of experience mounting skateboards in various Berlin apartments, the article covers fishing line hanging (€2-3), picture ledge repurposing (€5-8), Command strip mounting (€8-10), door hook hacks (€3-5), and custom wood mounts (€5-8). Each method includes detailed materials lists, step-by-step instructions, real-world testing experiences from organizing art events with Red Bull Ukraine, and honest assessments of limitations. The guide emphasizes that budget methods can achieve professional results with proper technique, discusses mix-and-match strategies for different spaces, and provides rental-friendly approaches that avoid permanent wall damage. Special focus on surface preparation, common mistakes from trial-and-error experience, and how to choose the right method based on wall type, deck weight, and aesthetic goals.