So here's the thing about renting in Berlin – actually, renting anywhere – landlords are NOT fans of holes in walls. I learned this the hard way when I first moved here four years ago from Ukraine. Had this amazing collection of skateboard decks, hung them all up with proper wall anchors, felt great about my setup. Move-out inspection? Yeah, that didn't go well.
I'm Stanislav, founder of DeckArts, and if I had a euro for every time someone asked me "how do I hang these without losing my security deposit," I'd have... well, a lot of euros. Let me walk you through five methods I've tested extensively – both personally and with dozens of customers who face the same rental restrictions.
Method #1: Command Strips (The Standard Solution)
Weight capacity: Up to 20 pounds (9kg) with heavyweight strips Cost: €15-25 for a multi-pack Difficulty: Super easy Damage risk: Near zero if removed properly
Okay, Command strips are the obvious answer everyone suggests, but there's a right way and a wrong way to use them for skateboard decks.
Here's what actually works: You need the XL Heavyweight Picture Hanging Strips – specifically the ones rated for 20 pounds. Don't cheap out and grab the medium ones thinking "oh, a skateboard deck only weighs like 3 pounds." The weight rating isn't just about the deck itself – it's about sustained vertical load over months or years.
Skateboard wall mount using adhesive strips for renter-friendly apartment installation
Step-by-step application:
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Clean your wall with rubbing alcohol – seriously, this matters more than people think. Even clean-looking walls have dust and oils that mess with adhesion.
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Wait 10 minutes for the alcohol to fully evaporate. I know you want to rush this. Don't.
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Apply 4-6 strip pairs to the BACK of your deck (not directly to the wall first). For our Klimt The Kiss skateboard, I typically use 6 pairs arranged in two rows.
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Press each strip firmly for 30 seconds. Time it. Your thumb will get tired. That's fine.
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Wait 1 hour before hanging. This is the part where most people fail – they wait like 10 minutes and then wonder why it falls.
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Press the deck firmly against the wall for another 30 seconds.
Pro tip from experience: Put a small piece of painter's tape at the bottom edge of where your deck will sit. If the Command strips start failing, the deck will slide down slightly and rest on the tape instead of crashing to the floor. This has saved three of my customers' decks from damage.
Real talk about limitations:
Command strips work great for lighter art decks like ours (around 1.5kg), but if you're hanging a complete board with trucks and wheels still attached? That's pushing 2-3kg and the strips start getting unreliable after a few months. According to research from the Good Housekeeping Institute, Command strip adhesion degrades about 15-20% over six months due to environmental factors.
Method #2: Fishing Line + Picture Hook (The Invisible Method)
Weight capacity: 10-15 pounds with 50lb test line Cost: €3-5 total Difficulty: Easy, but requires one tiny nail Damage risk: Minimal (tiny pinhole only)
This is actually my personal favorite method – the one I use in my own apartment. Technically it requires a nail, but we're talking about a tiny pin-sized hole that disappears with a dab of toothpaste when you move out. Most landlords don't even notice.
What you need:
- 50-pound test fishing line (clear monofilament)
- One small picture hook or even just a thumbtack
- Scissors
- About 5 minutes
How it works:
Thread the fishing line through the top two truck bolt holes on your deck. Make a loop, tie it with a double knot (I use a fisherman's knot because, well, it's fishing line). The key is making the loop long enough that the deck hangs at eye level when suspended from your hook.
Here's the math: If your hook is at 170cm height, and your deck is 80cm long, you want about 25-30cm of fishing line loop. This puts the center of your deck at roughly 145cm – perfect eye level.
Insert the picture hook high on your wall, hang the fishing line loop over it. Done. The fishing line is basically invisible from more than a meter away, so your Caravaggio Medusa deck looks like it's floating on the wall.
I actually wrote about horizontal vs vertical hanging orientation which pairs really well with this method – fishing line works for both orientations.
The downside:
If someone bumps the deck, it swings a bit. Not a huge deal, but if you have kids or large dogs running around, maybe go with a more rigid mounting method.
Also, according to the Smithsonian Conservation Institute, UV exposure can degrade nylon fishing line over 18-24 months if your deck is in direct sunlight. Use fluorocarbon line instead if that's a concern – it's UV resistant.
Method #3: Adhesive Wall Hooks (The Modern Solution)
Weight capacity: Up to 37 pounds (17kg) for heavy-duty versions Cost: €12-20 for a pack Difficulty: Very easy Damage risk: Low (removable adhesive)
These are like Command strips' cooler, more capable cousin. They're basically heavy-duty adhesive pads with built-in hooks or clips.
Adhesive skateboard wall mount hooks for damage-free installation without drilling
The ones I recommend are specifically designed for skateboards – they have a curved clip that grabs the deck through the truck holes. You stick the adhesive part to your wall, wait the recommended time (usually 24 hours for full cure), then clip your deck in.
Why I like these:
They're way more secure than standard Command strips because the hook design distributes weight better. Plus you can remove and rehang your deck whenever you want without affecting the adhesive – unlike Command strips which are one-time use.
For something like our Bosch Garden of Earthly Delights triptych, you'd use 6-9 hooks total (2-3 per deck) and it creates this really clean floating effect.
Important application notes:
The adhesive works best on smooth, painted drywall. If you have textured walls (common in older European buildings), the contact area is reduced and the weight capacity drops. In my Berlin apartment with textured walls, I found these held about 60-70% of their rated capacity.
Also, temperature matters. Don't install these in winter when your apartment is cold. The adhesive needs 18-21°C to cure properly. I made this mistake in January and had a deck fall after two weeks.
Method #4: Floor Stands (The Zero-Wall-Contact Option)
Weight capacity: Varies by design, typically 5-10kg Cost: €30-60 Difficulty: None (just place it) Damage risk: Literally zero
Okay, this isn't technically "hanging," but hear me out. If your landlord is REALLY strict, or you're in a short-term rental, or you just don't want any wall contact at all – floor stands are actually pretty cool.
Minimalist wooden skateboard floor stand for zero-damage apartment display
Modern skateboard floor stands have come a long way from the janky plastic ones from 10 years ago. Now you can get beautiful wooden or metal designs that lean your deck at the perfect angle. Some even have integrated lighting.
Best use cases:
- Temporary living situations (under 6 months)
- Spaces where you're frequently rearranging
- When you want to display the complete board with wheels showing
- Small apartments where floor space is easier to spare than wall space
Back when I was organizing art events for Red Bull Ukraine, we used floor stands for temporary exhibitions all the time. Quick setup, zero damage, easy transport.
The downside:
Floor stands take up floor space (obviously), and if you have limited square footage in a Berlin studio apartment, that matters. Also, they don't have the same visual impact as wall-mounted art – there's something about seeing a skateboard on the wall that just hits different.
Method #5: Pressure-Mounted Tracks (The Collection Solution)
Weight capacity: Depends on system, typically 20-30kg total Cost: €40-80 for track system Difficulty: Moderate Damage risk: Very low (pressure-mounted, no screws)
This is the method I recommend if you're serious about displaying multiple decks and might want to rearrange them frequently. Think of it like a tension shower caddy, but for skateboards.
Pressure-mounted track systems span between floor and ceiling (or wall-to-wall) using spring-loaded tension. No screws, no anchors, just pressure. Then you attach adjustable clips to the track that hold your decks.
Why this is brilliant for collectors:
You can easily move decks around, swap pieces in and out, adjust heights – all without any new holes. When I first saw this system at a skateboard art gallery in Berlin's creative scene, I immediately got one for my shop.
For displaying our Girl with a Pearl Earring duo alongside other pieces, this system lets you create a proper gallery wall effect.
Installation tips:
Make sure the track is truly vertical – use a level. Even a slight angle puts uneven pressure and can cause the whole system to slowly slide down over weeks.
Also, these work best with standard 2.4m-2.6m ceiling heights. If you're in an altbau apartment with 3+ meter ceilings, you'll need extension pieces or a different approach.
The spring mechanism can leave slight indentations on painted ceilings if overtightened. Put a small piece of felt or foam between the pressure point and your ceiling to distribute the load.
What About Velcro? (Don't)
I know some websites recommend industrial-strength Velcro for hanging skateboards. I'm gonna be honest – I've tried this method three times and it failed spectacularly every time.
The problem is that Velcro creates a shear force (sliding parallel to the wall) rather than a perpendicular pull. Skateboard decks are just heavy and flat enough that they work their way loose over time. I had one deck fall at 3am once. Scared the hell out of me.
If you really want to use Velcro for some reason, you'd need like 15-20 heavy-duty strips which ends up being more expensive and less reliable than Command strips anyway.
The Security Deposit Reality Check
Look, I've lived in five different apartments in Berlin since moving here, and I've mounted skateboard art in all of them using various methods. Here's what I've learned about getting your deposit back:
Tiny pinholes (fishing line method): Never had a landlord mention them. Fill with a bit of toothpaste before move-out if you're paranoid.
Command strip residue: Sometimes leaves slight marks on cheap paint. Have a Magic Eraser on hand during move-out cleaning.
Pressure-mounted systems: Never had issues, but check your ceiling for indentations before final inspection.
Adhesive hooks: These are hit or miss depending on how long they've been up. Under 12 months? Usually fine. Over 18 months? Sometimes leaves marks.
The key thing is: remove everything at least a week before your move-out inspection. This gives you time to clean any residue, touch up minor marks, and generally make sure everything looks good.
My Personal Recommendation
After testing all these methods extensively – both personally and with customers – here's what I actually use and recommend:
For single decks in standard apartments: Fishing line method. It's cheap, invisible, easily reversible, and that tiny pinhole is genuinely unnoticeable.
For multiple decks or frequently changing displays: Adhesive wall hooks rated for heavy weight. They're more expensive upfront but worth it for the flexibility.
For ultra-strict landlords or short-term rentals: Floor stands or pressure-mounted tracks. Zero wall contact = zero argument.
For permanent installations where you own the place: Just use proper wall anchors and screws like a normal person. Why are you even reading this article? (Kidding, but seriously, if you can drill, drill.)
Common Mistakes I See All The Time
Mistake #1: Not cleaning the wall properly
I cannot stress this enough – alcohol wipe, wait for it to dry, THEN apply adhesive. Every single time I've seen a Command strip fail prematurely, inadequate surface prep was the culprit.
Mistake #2: Rushing the cure time
Whether it's Command strips, adhesive hooks, or whatever – the manufacturer says wait 24 hours for a reason. Waiting 2 hours is not the same. Your deck will fall.
Mistake #3: Using methods designed for pictures
Skateboards are not pictures. They're longer, heavier, and have different weight distribution. Those tiny Command strips rated for "1 pound" that work great for photos? Yeah, those won't cut it.
Mistake #4: Ignoring environmental factors
Humidity, temperature, UV exposure, wall texture – all of these affect adhesive performance. If your apartment has poor ventilation and gets humid, adhesives will fail faster. If your walls are textured plaster, contact area is reduced. Pay attention to your specific conditions.
Mistake #5: Not having a backup plan
Put a piece of furniture under your mounted deck. Not directly underneath (that looks weird), but close enough that if something fails, the deck falls onto your couch or cabinet instead of the floor. This simple precaution has saved multiple decks from edge damage.
The Long-Term Perspective
Here's something nobody talks about: even the best non-permanent mounting methods need refreshing every 12-18 months. Adhesives degrade, fishing line can stretch, pressure systems can loosen.
I replace my fishing line annually just as preventive maintenance. Takes 5 minutes, costs €2, prevents disasters. Think of it like changing smoke detector batteries – just do it on a schedule.
For Command strips and adhesive hooks, I check them every 3-4 months by gently pulling on the deck to test if there's any movement. If I feel any give, I take it down, clean the wall, and reapply fresh adhesive.
This isn't being paranoid – it's being smart. These decks represent your investment in art. Our pieces range from €149-299. A few euros in preventive maintenance is worth it.
Final Thoughts: Know Your Priorities
The "best" method depends entirely on your situation:
- Ultra-strict landlord + expensive deposit? → Floor stand or pressure tracks
- Standard rental, reasonable landlord? → Fishing line or adhesive hooks
- Frequently change displays? → Adhesive hooks or pressure system
- Temporary living (under 6 months)? → Floor stand or Command strips
- Own the place but prefer no holes? → Any method, but adhesive hooks are most convenient
The beautiful thing about skateboard wall art – especially pieces like our classical Renaissance reproductions – is that they're designed to be displayed. You shouldn't have to sacrifice that just because you're renting.
Pick a method that matches your risk tolerance, follow the installation instructions properly, and you'll have beautiful art on your walls without jeopardizing your security deposit.
Now stop overthinking it and hang some art already.
About the Author
Stanislav Arnautov is the founder of DeckArts and a creative director originally from Ukraine, now based in Berlin. With extensive experience in branding, merchandise design, and vector graphics, Stanislav has worked with Ukrainian streetwear brands and organized art events for Red Bull Ukraine. His unique expertise combines classical art knowledge with modern design sensibilities, creating museum-quality skateboard art that bridges Renaissance masterpieces with contemporary culture. Follow him on Instagram, visit his personal website stasarnautov.com, or check out DeckArts on Instagram and explore the curated collection at DeckArts.com.
Article Summary
Renting doesn't mean sacrificing wall art. This comprehensive guide covers five apartment-friendly methods for hanging skateboard decks without nails or permanent damage: Command strips, fishing line with minimal holes, adhesive hooks, floor stands, and pressure-mounted systems. Drawing from four years of Berlin rental experience and extensive customer feedback, I analyze each method's weight capacity, cost, difficulty, and real-world reliability. Learn proper installation techniques, common mistakes, long-term maintenance, and security deposit considerations. Whether you're displaying single pieces or building a collection, discover damage-free mounting solutions that actually work.